The study area, located on the south coast of the United Kingdom at coordinates 50.622614°N, -3.368909°W, provides an ideal setting for analyzing coastal processes such as wave climate and its effects on nearshore environments. This research focuses on wave behavior including shoaling, refraction, and breaking, which are critical for designing effective coastal structures to manage erosion and flood risks. Students seeking detailed insights and technical guidance can benefit from assignment help writing services that cover coastal data analysis, wave transformation, overtopping discharge, and the impact of climate change on coastal engineering projects. Such support aids in understanding and applying complex methodologies like JONSWAP-based wave predictions and overtopping calculations vital for resilient coastal design.
The referent position of the study area concerning coordinates 50.622614°N, -3.368909°W is a town on the south coast of the United Kingdom. This area can be described by positions relative to the coastline and is hence suitable for the study of coastal processes especially involving wave climate and its impacts on nearshore conditions. The study site is situated in an area with a relatively high level of marine locomotive activity, influenced by wind and wave action from the North Atlantic.
The interaction of the site with offshore waves and the different shallow water depths available for the waves to travel through make it ideal for studying wave transformation features including shoaling, refraction, and breaking. Awareness of these characteristics is very important in the assessment of coastal constructions and in managing wave overtopping effects. The site is useful in characterizing variations in wave climate and nearshore behavior of other coastal regions similar to the area in question.
This report is divided into five major parts or sections as discussed below. Section one of the report introduces the study location and the objectives of the report. The guidelines describe the procedures required for wave climate identification, fetch determination, and wave transformation as well as specifics of shoaling and refraction, and nearshore wave climate analysis. In the data analysis section, the works are exhibited on using JONSWAP for wind and fetch direction estimations, then for wave transformation, and lastly to the estimation of overtopping discharge. With the help of the discussion section, the paper analyzes the design values concerning climate change effects, and it is helpful to conclude the values and examine the most important design values.
Wave climate analysis is essential in the assessment of wave characteristics at a site of interest. For the current work, the wave climate will be defined based on the analysis of offshore waves and their relation to the fetch length – the distance over which the wind can blow across the water surface. The length and direction of the fetch as well as some other parameters are peculiar to wave height, period, and energy.
This enhances characteristics of the wave propagation and it alters the nearshore environment since the fetch direction works hand in hand with the local wind conditions (Brown et al. 2021). In the analysis here, fetch directions are divided into increments to make an overall assessment of wave patterns from the directions. Each fetch direction is associated with its DOI, which is utilized to estimate the wave conditions in the study area.
In this section, the procedure of the fetch estimation for each direction together with the evaluation of the wave conditions is described. Constitutes the application of existing information on offshore wave conditions like wind speed and direction to determine the maximum feasible fetch length (Ghanbari et al. 2021). Hence, a relationship between fetch length and wave climate outlined in the present analysis yields information on heights and wave climate that will impact the concerned coastal region.
Wave transformation processes can therefore be described as the processes through which waves evolve as they move from deep offshore waters onto the continental shelf and shorebreak. These processes are however dependent on factors such as depth, coastline shape, and types of waves that are experienced in that particular region. Three primary wave transformation processes are commonly analyzed: shoaling, refraction, and breaking.
Shoaling takes place when waves approach the shallow regions with a consequent reduction in the speed and increase in the height of the waves (Hintermaier and Lin, 2024). The Shoaling process is useful for explaining why and how wave energy is concentrated close to the shore, and the relationship between wave height and water depth.
Refraction refers to the change of direction of waves by a medium when they penetrate from one layer – of greater depth than another – or vice versa. This process is a result of differences in wave speed at varying water depths – a process that results in wave directionality. Refraction normally rearranges waves in proportion to the shoreline, which extensively influences the wave energy dissipation along the coast.
Wave Breaking can occur when the wave grows steeper than its capabilities allow, to propagate in deeper waters, and thus it breaks (Ismail, 2023). This process depends on the wave characteristics such as wave height and wave period and the water depth and offshore bathymetry and is central to offshore energy dissipation and sediment movement nearest to the shore.
Altogether these wave transformation processes are significant for evaluating nearshore wave climate and for the design of coastal structures. They assist in determining the wave response at distinct phases of shoreline engagement as critical to comprehending the coastal environment.
Nearshore wave climate is the environment encountered at the nearshore zone of the coast where waves are exposed to shoaling, reflection, refraction, and breaking. In this regard, it becomes necessary to predict the nearshore wave climate so that an understanding of the extent to which the waves can impact the structures and the environment is understood. The nearshore wave climate therefore involves factors such as the offshore wave, water depth, and coastal slope.
Overtopping discharge which is the amount of water that falls over a structure in a coastal area is basic to coastal engineering (Jeong et al. 2021). However, it is especially useful for the formulation of long-lasting coastal defense and reduction of flood risks. The evaluation of overtopping discharge is based on nearshore waves, water depth, and characteristics of the structure such as the crested elevation. The principal method in evaluating overtopping discharge is mainly based on observational equations that take into consideration wave height and depth observed in the nearshore zone.
Hence, for this study, the overtopping discharge coefficient is defined by using nearshore significant wave height including wave transformation processes beside the depth in the study area (Koosheh et al. 2021). The results may also provide valuable information on overtopping behavior for evaluation of the efficiency of coastal structures and ethe lucidation of flood hazards from exceptional waves.
The fetch data is presented as well as the waves to which the distance was generated, with the Hs and Tz calculated from the wave properties provided below. They involve a comparison of the direction of the fetch and the heights of the waves which in the various directions of the fetch have been computed. The data is important for the evaluation of the wave state as regards their development concerning the fetch length and concerning potential transformation processes. The obtained wave characteristics give essential information on the offshore wave regime and are used for the subsequent investigation of wave processes, nearshore wave conditions, and overtopping rates (Mohamed Rashidi et al. 2021). This figure gives the first idea of wave heights and periods dependent on the fetch direction and distance only.
This plot compares the condition of significant wave height (Hs) with the direction of fetch. As such it shows the variation of the wave heights based on the direction of the fetch to highlight regions where prospective waves are high. The source material highlights one graphical thing – this is the wind fetch length and direction in the relation to energy and size of the waves. With the increase in the length of the fetch, waves gain size in height and increase with the building up of the wind speed and time. Since the study is centered on wave information obtained from the northeast direction, current results make it possible to forecast possible wave heights across different fetch directions and consequently assist in comprehending the offshore wave climate in the study area. The outcomes of this analysis can be considered essential to define variations in the wave height across the spatial domain, which would be used for the design of coastal barriers and evaluation of some potential to withstand wave effects.
The selected fetch directions together with the wave transformation that takes place as the waves move towards the shore are depicted in Figure 4. This has been shown in this graph where the effects of wave transform processes like refraction, shoaling, and breaking on wave height and period are considered while varying fetch direction. According to the typical wind directions influencing the area, the fetch directions are selected to permit reasonable prediction of wave parameters in the nearshore zone. One of the parameters for assessing the forcing of waves on nearshore structures and the probability of coastal erosion is the offshore wave transformation into the nearshore wave. Thus, this analysis helps design protection structures because it gives information on the wave characteristics when approaching the coast.
Wave climate changes, therefore, relate to shifts in the wave dimensions, height, period, and direction attributed to local and global effects. These variations have considerable effects near the shore where waves meet with the coastal sea and thus various processes occur at coastal zones like wave refraction, shoaling, and breaking. Among existing classifications, knowledge of the local wave climate is critical for predicting sediment movement, erosion, and flooding in the nearshore zone. The temporal and spatial changes in wave climate reflect seasonality, storms, and changes in wind direction with an implication of reliable modeling for effective coast protection from erosion and other hazards.
The design values determined from wave climate, nearshore state, and overtopping discharge are important for the area of concern. These values have direct implications to the engineering of coastal structures for they assist in determining the likelihood of erosion or flooding impacts of waves and currents (Sellaet al. 2021). Appropriate design values allow the construction of effective barriers, including breakwaters or sea walls, with the correct size and location to protect coasts from violent wave actions. Due to the specificity of the time-space characteristics of the wave environment, the consideration of values such as fetch direction and height of waves makes it possible to provide measures to counteract the local conditions.
It emerged that climate change and isostatic rebound are major influences on coastal wave climates. This is due to climate change which leads to increases in sea levels and gives rise to changes in wind speed direction all of which lead to changes in incoming waves or water waves which in turn affect coastlines' vulnerabilities to erosion and flood hazard. Other site-specific factors include isostatic rebound whereby areas that were once covered by glaciers experience a slow rise in altitude after the glaciers have melted (Vivier et al. 2021). These changes result in variations of the nearshore wave climate thereby changing the wave transformation processes and increasing the risk on coastal structures. These should be taken into account in sustainable coastal development and in long-term coastal management planning.
Future changes in coastal wave climate are expected to be in association with present climate change factors such as increasing sea levels, changing storm frequency, and variations in wind/wave regimes. Rising and storm surges should be a focus of direction and adaptation for wave models, especially concerning coastal erosion, floods, and the effects of these phenomena on structures. Future investigations are required to enhance the understanding of isostatic rebound about wave climate and coastal dynamics (Yu et al. 2024). New procedures for data gathering such as through satellite images and oceanography enable improved prediction of wave climate and adaptive use plans.
5. Key conclusions
5.1 Summary of Key Findings
This study shows a high spatial dispersion of mean wave heights and overtopping discharge and identifies specific dominance directions where wave fetch and wind act in series. Shoaling and refraction are among the wave transformation processes that are central to the alteration of wave heights in the nearshore zone. Predictions of nearshore wave climate and overtopping discharge also show that there are specific fetch directionality zones that are potentially vulnerable to high wave impacts that would result in high overtopping rates. Further, climate change and isostatic rebound are likely to affect future waves: a point to beef up the issue of adaptive management in coastal management.
5.2 Critical Design Values
| Fetch Direction (deg) | Significant Wave Height (Hs, m) | Overtopping Discharge (m³/s/m) | Effective Fetch (km) |
| 230 | 1.2 | 0.005 | 10 |
| 245 | 1.5 | 0.007 | 12 |
| 270 | 1.8 | 0.010 | 15 |
| 300 | 2.1 | 0.013 | 20 |
| 315 | 2.0 | 0.012 | 18 |
Table 1: Critical Design Values
References
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